Sardinien Kletterführer “Pietra di Luna” von Maurizio Oviglia

WARNUNG

 

Wir haben 10 Tage lang den Sardinienkletterführer “Pietra di Luna” (2002) von Maurizio Oviglia benutzt. Dieser ist für Sportkletterrouten gut geeignet, wenn auch die Zustiegsbeschreibungen nicht immer sehr gut, geschweige denn nachvollziehbar sind.

Für Mehrseillängen ist der Gebrauch jedoch fatal!! Die Angaben sind falsch und entsprechen nicht annähernd dem aktuellen Stand. Zufahrten sind teilweise unmöglich, Zustiegswege nicht vorhanden und Routen nicht wie beschrieben abgesichert. Hacken, Schlingen und sogar Standplätze fehlen!!!

 

Folgt ist der Brief an den Verlag sowie den Autor zu lesen, auf den nicht geantortet wurde.

 

 

Brief an Maurizio Oviglia und den Fabula Verlag (Cagliari)

Concerning: Important Security Notes

Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,

I was currently in Sardinia climbing for 10 days and used your guide book “Pietra di Luna” (2002) from Maurizio Oviglia, published by Fabula (Cagliari).

I’m writing because there are major mistakes and even wrong descriptions of routes and accessibility in all multi-pitch routes we tried. The given information in your guide-book is grossly negligent and can lead to grave injuries. We had some injuries our self but got away quiet gladly (no death cases). But had to refer to medical aid!!

You should immediately make some adjustments, or at least make a statement on our webpage!!

I am a sophisticated climber and have myself written a guide-book in Germany.

For your information I want to point out the deficiencies and wrong descriptions we found during our stay:

Cala Sisine:

We tried to get there by car. Your description is just wrong and by far not accurate! The “street” as you call the ways is 15km long and is by far not anything close to a street. The way is gravely marked by deep holes which can’t even be passed by a Jeep!

You should point out that the way is very heavily damaged and takes about 2-3h by car from the start of the unfortified way and is not to be done by inexperienced drivers!! Best or better only done by Jeep!

Cala Goloritze

Route 21, which is a multi-pitch route not on the Goloritze itself but with a beautiful view on it is not possible to access or climb. We followed the guide book instructions. But there was no way up to the wall. We went through the bushes and up the steep hill where we took injuries crawling though the bushes and on loose giant rocks. After some hours we finally found the wall and started climbing. Just after the first heel some huge rock loosened and broke out. The continuing route had so much loose rock on it that we had to brake off.

Neither the accessibility, nor the condition, nor the coverage of the route was given or stated !! This is just deficient and not tolerable for a guide book.

On this trip we injured ourselves badly due to the wrong descriptions in your guide-book.

THIS ACCESS AND ROUTE ARE NOT SAFE TO DO!!!

Monte Oddeu

We tried route 1. Your mentioning of the coverage is once more imperfect. The first pitch has only three bolts, first after about 12m (wasn’t stated in the book). The second pitch has not one single bolt!!! (not stated) and even the belay station is missing (not stated). On the third pitch not one bolt was visible and the way or direction was neither visible (not stated).

All described information was not stated in the guide book making the tour not as pleasant as we would have hoped.

Surtana

We tried to find the way to the wall. The descriptions in the guide-book are so misguiding that we tried for hours to find the wall, the route and just the way!

You should definitely point out that one has to LEAVE the valley and go up to the plain!!!

 

The single pitch areas were always good described. But with the multi-pitch areas, somedays we where better of just looking at the street signs than in your book!

I certainly hope that you’ll think about some descriptions and maybe find a way to add them somewhere.  Then coming climbers will be informed about the circumstances more precisely.

Regards, Tim Jacobs.